If I Had To Fight Mange Again

This page answers the question "What would I do (differently or the same) if I had to fight mange, again?"
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Veterinarian

As I have already mentioned, the best treatment for a sick animal is to get to the veterinarian as soon as possible.

If I'm ever in this situation again, I hope that the vet is an option.

Quarantine

Mange can be very contagious. Infected animals must be isolated from other animals, in order to reduse the chances that all of them will become ill.

This wasn't an option with Bandit, because he is feral. For all I know, he went out on the town infecting other cats while I tried to treat him. But if it happens again, I hope to be able to quarantine the sick animal.

This means more than just "don't let them play together". It also includes:

Human Infection

It is theoretically possible for humans to catch mange from animals. But it doesn't go far. Mange mites specialize in the species they attack and mange mites from a cat don't do too well on humans. They might get a start, but shouldn't thrive.

Still, I was probably quite lucky, because I had a lot of contact with Grimalkin before he died and before his condition was diagnosed.

I guess the lesson for next time is to wash up, thoroughly and frequently. Plenty of soap and hot water.

Washing goes for both people and clothing.

Environmental Surfaces

A reader of this web site e-mailed me to ask if there was anything that could be used around the house to kill mites that came off the infected animal.

I must admit to not thinking about that, probably because I didn't have to go through it. Bandit stayed outdoors, and that was part of the problem.

But if the next battle takes place indoors, I might try dusting around with Boric Acid powder. This is very commonly used in roach killer. I think it also kills fleas and ants. It might work on mites that escape from an infected animal. Either way, it's very inexpensive stuff, and probably qualifies as cheap insurance. In reasonable amounts, it is harmless to kids and pets, but I'll have to read the label, just to be sure.

Order Treatment Supplies

As soon as I found out that I would have to take desperate measures of a home mange cure, I should have ordered treatment supplies immediately. Time is of the essence. Unfortunately, I lost some time trying to figure out what to do last time.

Next time, I will immediately go to Pet Supplies 4 Less and order the following:
what order number price purpose
Eqvalan Paste 1.87% Ivermectin, 6.08 g 016MRK01-6.08 $12.65 active ingredient
Syringe-O Ring, 60 cc, Eccentric 011BAXOR-60 $2.00 measure glycerin (or vegetable oil); replaces graduated cylinder
And one of the following:
what order number price purpose
Syringe-O Ring, 1 cc 011BAXOR-1 $0.70 dispense solution - for small cats
Syringe-O Ring, 3 cc 011BAXOR-3 $0.70 dispense solution - for normal cats
Syringe-O Ring, 5 cc 011BAXOR-5 $0.70 dispense solution - for extreme cases

Note:

[April 2005 update:]
The first few times I had to do this, I mixed the horse paste with vegetable oil. The paste doesn't really dissolve in the oil. The best that you can hope for is to stir for a long time, breaking up the horse paste into tiny bits that stay in suspension. Since then, I have experimented with mixing horse paste with glycerin, and it works a lot better. Glycerin is pretty easy to find at drug stores. It may be with the cosmetics. Make sure that the glycerin is pure, not some fancy stuff that just contains some glycerin.

Buy Time

While I was waiting for the supplies to arrive, I engaged in certain measures intended to buy time.

I think that these measures helped, and I would go through them again.

Prepare The Solution

There are a wide variety of Ivermectin-based products that could be used for dosing cats.

All of my math is based on a diluted solution of 1.0 mg Ivermectin/ml. Ivermecting doesn't come this way, but it is a convenient dilution to work with.

It looks like Ivermectin-based "horse paste" is readily available in a standard strength: 1.87% (a 6.08 g Syringe intended to treat a 1250-pound horse). I would probably mix it with glycerin.

I would mix it according to my original method:

In addition to horse paste, injectable Ivermectin seems fairly common in a standard strength of 1% (10 mg/ml). If I were working with this material, I would prepare my standard dilution using:

Weigh The Cat

The dose of Ivermectin solution is calculated based on the weight of the animal. A fat cat gets more; a skinny animal less. Ideally, I would weigh the animal.

Possible methods include:

I don't know which of those methods produces the most accurate results. If possible, I would try all three and see how the results differ.

The smaller the cat, the more precise you have to be. If I had to treat a tiny cat, I would probably put her in a kitchen scale designed to weigh cooking ingredients.

When dealing with Bandit, I didn't have the option of any of these. Wild cats don't like being handled. I guessed a weight of 10 pounds. I hope I don't have to guess next time - overdoses can be dangerous!

The Merck Veterinary Manual recommends 0.2 mg/kg, and cautions that "Sudden death in association with the use of ivermectin in kittens has been reported." What age range should be considered a "kitten?" I don't know what Merck uses, but I would estimate from birth through 4 months.

Computing Dosage

All of my math is based on a diluted solution of 1.0 mg Ivermectin/ml. Ivermecting doesn't come this way; I prepare it myself.

Based on previous results:

Since Ivermectin can be be dangerous, I would probably use the lowest dose that seems to work. That means 0.2 mg/kg next time.

This figure is for cats only and is based on my research and single experiment. Dogs would be a completely different situation because (a) they generally get a different species of mite and (b) certain breeds of dogs are sensitive to Ivermectin (I have seen warnings about collies and related breeds). I have seen dog web site recommend .2 mg/kg, daily, continued for 2 months after no mites are found. That dog mange must be tough stuff!

The computation is easy:

I would get a 1 cc syringe, which would serve cats up to about 11 pounds. Larger standard sizes are 3 cc and 5 cc.

This table shows the hypothetical doses for various cat weights and treatment levels. As I mentioned, I would probably use the column "standard = .2 mg/kg". If the cat were elderly, injured, very young, or had other illnesses, I would probably use the column "weak = .1 mg/kg". I would avoid higher treatment levels unless I had a reliable diagnosis of the less common (and harder to cure) Demodectic Mange. This table is based on my standard dilution, containing a concentration of 1.0 mg Ivermectin/ml. [Veterinarians have access to pre-diluted Ivermectin, which is usually 10 mg/ml.]
Notoedric Mange (Feline Scabies) or Sarcoptic Mange (Scabies) Demodectic Mange (Demodicosis; Red Mange)
cat weight weak = .1 mg/kg standard = .2 mg/kg strong = .3 mg/kg .4 mg/kg .5 mg/kg .6 mg/kg
pounds kilos dose, ml (cc) dose, ml (cc) dose, ml (cc) dose, ml (cc) dose, ml (cc) dose, ml (cc)
1 0.45 0.05 0.09 0.14 0.18 0.23 0.27
2 0.90 0.09 0.18 0.27 0.36 0.45 0.54
3 1.35 0.14 0.27 0.41 0.54 0.68 0.81
4 1.80 0.18 0.36 0.54 0.72 0.90 1.08
5 2.25 0.23 0.45 0.68 0.90 1.13 1.35
6 2.70 0.27 0.54 0.81 1.08 1.35 1.62
7 3.15 0.32 0.63 0.95 1.26 1.58 1.89
8 3.60 0.36 0.72 1.08 1.44 1.80 2.16
9 4.05 0.41 0.81 1.22 1.62 2.03 2.43
10 4.50 0.45 0.90 1.35 1.80 2.25 2.70
11 4.95 0.50 0.99 1.49 1.98 2.48 2.97
12 5.40 0.54 1.08 1.62 2.16 2.70 3.24
13 5.85 0.59 1.17 1.76 2.34 2.93 3.51
14 6.30 0.63 1.26 1.89 2.52 3.15 3.78
15 6.75 0.68 1.35 2.03 2.70 3.38 4.05
16 7.20 0.72 1.44 2.16 2.88 3.60 4.32
17 7.65 0.77 1.53 2.30 3.06 3.83 4.59
18 8.10 0.81 1.62 2.43 3.24 4.05 4.86
19 8.55 0.86 1.71 2.57 3.42 4.28 5.13
20 9.00 0.90 1.80 2.70 3.60 4.50 5.40
likely safe likely safe
for healthy adults
stronger than necessary I haven't tried it

Monitor Dosage

In Bandit's case, I mixed the Ivermectin with canned cat food. I need to do more research on the best way to get a cat to eat this stuff.

Since Ivermectin tastes bitter, the cat might not eat all the the medicated food. In some cases, another animal might eat some of the medicated food. Either way, it means the sick animal is not getting the medication he needs.

With Bandit, I tried to estimate how much he was really eating. If he didn't eat most of the medication, I gave him some more the next day, so the total adds up to the intended dose. This is probably a reasonable approach.

Next time, I'll watch him to make sure that the right cat is eating the food.

Treatment Schedule

I like the results I got with 3 doses, about a week apart.

I also think it was a good idea to dose the cat at night, so he could sleep off any side-effects.

Ideally, I would watch him for adverse side effects, but Bandit is a stray who eats the food we offer, and then disappears.

With three treatments, about a week apart, I would just mix up one batch of diluted Ivermectin and keep it in the refrigerator until the last dose has been administered. The two weeks that elapse between the first and last treatment should be sufficient to see some significant visible improvement.

Disposal

So, how does one dispose of the leftover Ivermectin? Note: Ivermectin is harmful to fish. Don't dump concentrated material someplace where it could get into ocean or stream.

The diluted solution of Ivermectin in oil, I would flush down the toilet. There is unlikely to be enough there to bother whatever treats your sewage.

The tube of horse paste still contains a lot of medicine that, if I am careful, is uncontaminated. I would probably keep it in the refrigerator in case of future need. It should be disposed of when the expiration date is reached. I suspect that the best method is to wrap it in plastic and put it in the trash.

The syringes - I would pull out the plunger, wash thoroughly with soap and water, then air dry, and put away in case of later need. Make sure that you put them in a container clearly marked as veterinary supplies. You don't want kids playing with them.

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Disclaimer

I am not a veterinarian or any other kind of health practicioner. This is not advice for you, it is a plan for me - in the event that I have to treat mange again without the aid of a professional.

You should leave diagnosis and treatment to a veterinary professional. If your pet looks sick or injured, you should be on your way to the vet now.

If your veterinarian is unable or unwilling to treat feline mange, or is unsuccessful after one month of treatment, please see If Your Veterinarian Can't Help.

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